This picturesque walled fishing village sits on the bay of Txingudi, across the estuary from the French Basque village of Hendaye. Featured in “The Most Beautiful Villages of Spain” (Hugh Palmer 2003), Hondarribia (Fundarribia in Spanish), is widely considered to be one of the most picturesque coastal villages in all of Spain from its charming and colorful La Marina quarter to the much photographed fishermen’s homes of Calle San Pedro, with their green, blue and red shutters and geranium bedecked balconies. The handsome historic walled medieval quarter overlooks the city and is filled with aristocratic mansions as well as the Gothic-Renaissance castle of Carlos V. Its wide beach winds along the Bidasoa River to the coast and has excellent facilities for a family beach day. This seaside village makes an excellent base from where one can spend several days exploring the French Basque countryside, the Pays Basque, the lush green valleys and vineyards of neighboring Navarra, or inland Gipúzkoa.
So whether you decide to stay in grand style at the 10th-century Parador de Hondarribia on the Plaza de Armas in the medieval quarter, which is located a short walk from the historic stone arched Santa María Gate, or opt for something more simple but comfortable by staying at one of the agrotourism homes, you’ll be rewarded with lovely views, fantastic gourmet food, a lively fishing quarter for great pintxos in the evening, nice shopping and a friendly populace. There’s also a modern sports complex, yacht harbor and fishermen’s pier with restaurant, as well as several children’s playgrounds on the way to the family beach. The tourist center for Hondarribia-Irún and Bidasoa are located in the Marina complex.
Where To Dine In Hondarribia
Hondarribia has become known for its outstanding cuisine and is one of the main destinations for gourmands visiting the Basque country. The number of young chefs who have migrated here after studying under Pedro Subijana, Martín Berasategui and Arzak, among others, have given visitors a wide selection of great restaurants and pintxos bars to choose from, with the popular Bar Gran Sol having won numerous major pintxos competitions over the years.
Restaurante Alameda
For fine dining, and a Michelin star treat, choose this family run destination located across from the road leading up to the Old Quarter and the Parador at Calle Mirasoroeta, 1. Now celebrating their 75th anniversity. Considered by gastronomic critics as one of the finest spots in all the Basque Country for more than 20 years, the owners/chefs, Mikel, Gorka and Kepa Txapartegui, are among the country’s top stars with one Michelin star and two Repsol suns. If you can dine in only one of Hondarribia’s fine restaurants, splurge on the Alameda.
Restaurante Arroka Berri
Serving traditional Basque cuisine with a creative twist, one of my Hondarribia favorites is Arroka Berri, in the upper town on the right side of the road to the Cabo Higuer lighthouse at Calle Higer Bidea, 6. It’s housed in a typical Basque farmhouse remodeled in 2005. Chef Gorka Cepeda, with Jesus Ancisar, offers special group menus. Recommended in the Repsol Guide for 2023.
Abarka
This traditional Basque farmhouse in the foothills of the residential district of La Campiña, at Baserritar Etobidea, 36, is where Chef Natxo Garcia and his team offers classic Basque dishes with an innovative touch. Recommended by Andoni Luis Aduriz (‘Mugaritz’). To accompany your seafood dishes, be sure to try the local txakolí wine from the vineyards of Hiruzta.
Laia Asador-Sidrería
Opened in 2006, this modern roasting house, at Arkolla Auzoa, 33, excels in grilled meats and fish in a beautiful country setting with mountain views. In 2015 they won the award as the best grilling house from Gastronómika San Sebastián and are now considered on of the best 30 steakhouses in the world, with chef Jon Ayala a master of the grill.
Arraunlari Berri
For fine dining along the pedestrian walkway overlooking the bay, you need look no further that owner/chefs Aitor Amutxastegi and Jon Couso venue offering updated traditional Basque Cuisine. Recommended in the Repsol Guide for 2023.
Gastroteka Danontzat
“Ni restaurante, Ni bar”, the city’s highly innovative, chef-owned gastrobar, receiving much critical acclaim, is located in the Old Quarter on a pedestrian only side street at Denda Kalea, 6, where there is a large central table that invites you to share conversation and experience with other diners, or you can opt for a private table. The internationally recognized chef, Gorka Irisarri, has won several pintxos competitions. His gourmet cheeses, oils and wines will make your visit unforgettable.
Mika Hondarribia
You’ll find this small bar-restaurant in the heart of the old quarter in the Plaza de Armas, convenient for those staying at the Parador, is owned by chef Mika Pop, who began her career in Sintra (Portugal).
Badia Taberna
You’ll find this interesting Gasto-Tavern in the historic center of Hondarribia, across Gipuzkoa Plaza from the Hotel Hotel Palacete. It’s a small space where chef Amaia Urdangarin, who trained at the Aiala cooking school run by Karlos Arguiñano, and had a popular cooking program, “cocina abierta” on Canal Nova TV, offers traditional Basque dishes.
The Old Fishermen’s Quarter Classics
La Hermandad de Pescadores
Located at Calle Zuloaga, 12, not far from the old wharf, is a rustic, bustling, convivial place with impeccable seafood and service, and one of the most popular destinations in the city since 1938. You’ll need to reserve ahead of time, particularly on weekends when the French arrive in droves via the ferry from Hendaye. Try the almejas en salsa verde, clams in green sauce, a house specialty, rodaballo salvaje a la parrilla, grilled wild turbo, and the anchoas caseras en salazón, homemade salted anchovies. It’s inexpensive, fun and informal. Recommended in the Repsol Guide for 2023.
Kupela
Orginally opened in 1981, this traditional Hondarribia restaurant at Calle Zuloaga, 12. is in the former cofradía de pescadores de Hondarribia, the fishermen’s fraternity, where the fishermen kept their nets, dating from the 14th-century, is next door to La Hermandad de Pescadores.
Tour de France 2023
The Tour de France in the Spanish Basque Country is a major event: a first stage on the 1st of July around Bilbao, a second stage linking Vitoria-Gasteiz to San Sebastián, and a third stage that will finish in Bayonne on the French Basque coast, passing through Hondarribia. Three days of celebration for this popular sport, and three days that will make the Basque Country the centre of the sporting and cycling world!
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